February 9, 2010

Hu Dat?

What’s up, pussy cat? Wao, a-wao, a wao???? The Year of the Hu is fast approaching – February 14- nicely coinciding with Valentine’s Day. Fireworks, pickled offal, and other treats will herald the beginning of a year when Tigers rule.

In our family, there are many tigers: Mr. Understanding, Thing 3, Radish, Bop, and Poppy. For sure, it makes for an interesting mix. Mr. U-hu, fits the tiger description to a “T”. Although he and President Obama share the same Leo ( double-happiness- tiger!) birthday, it is interesting to note that our president is an Ox. The Chinese would say it is in his nature to move slowly.

Speaking of other forms of geomancy, before Mr. Understanding and I were married, we took the Myer’s-Briggs personality test at our church. It was like peering into a crystal ball and told me a lot about my prospective mate. We married each other anyway. The pastor told Mr. Understanding that he should never, ever forget my birthday or our anniversary. Also, he informed him that I did not like repetition, in any form.

This little fact is absolutely true. I don’t like to listen to the same story, over and over, for example. It does not embue me with nostalgia – just massive irritation. Mr. Understanding has one story, involving a Mexican maid and a porkchop, that makes me apoplectic. Among other things, he gets most of the facts wrong, embellishes, and exaggerates for heightened drama. I am a facts girl. Just tell the damn story using the facts, please! In this particular story, I had to drive home from the Mexico City airport on the Periferico with an almost comatose husband, having only lived in Mexico City for three weeks. White-knuckle agony! I used to correct him throughout the story but eventually learned to walk away. (Per his personality, his repertoire is limited. He can’t help it – it’s hu he is.)

To this end, I do not watch TV reruns, reread books (I can count on one hand the number of books I’ve read twice), and rarely buy the same item again, such as perfume. I’ll try something new, thank you. The exceptions to this general rule are romantic comedies and Seinfeld episodes, since I missed most of them anyway living abroad.

As it was Groundhog Day recently and our two cats’ birthday (they were born on 2/2/2002), we all sat down to watch one of my favorite movies, Groundhog Day, starring the inimitable Bill Murray and multi-tressed Andie McDowell. Ironic, no? An entire movie about repetition. In my humble opinion, Harold Ramis, the director and one of the screenwriters, is a genius and Bill Murray’s comedic timing is unparalleled.

Before the movie, Thing 1 was a super-grump and needed a break from studying, Mr. Understanding was under the weather with a cough, the other Things needed a time out from bickering; I needed an opportunity to work on one of my resolutions. After the movie, well, it was a whole different ball game: laughter is the best medicine, restorative, healing.

The next day the Saints came marching in and Who Dat? Nation celebrated in the Superdome. If New Orleans can make a Katrina comeback, I am hopeful Haiti will rise from the ashes and be better than ever. Last year was not Tiger Woods’ year but perhaps he is really a Snake; I am guessing that, for him, this year will be pretty quiet.

For me, all I am hoping CNY and February 14 will herald is a box of Belgian chocolates. Mr. Understanding doesn’t need to read my horoscope to figure that one out. Oh, and I hope there are fireworks:).

To read more about the astrological powerhouses of the Chinese zodiac, click here:

http://www.chiff.com/a/chinese-horoscopes.htm

*Photo courtesy of Princess Ai Lin, from one her Harbin Tiger Reserve tours. She rocks, doesn’t she???? We had our Vonage bookclub on “The Help” on Sunday. She brought up the very good point that understanding the language had a huge impact on the maid/princess relationship. Ignorance is sometimes bliss.

February 3, 2010

Royal Pain in the C-as-tle

“Mid pleasures and palaces though we may roam,
Be it ever so humble, there’s no place like home.”
John Howard Payne
US actor & dramatist (1791 – 1852)

There is hardly anything a princess likes better than a royal palace. Perhaps the royal jewels inside the crown, but really, not much. But before I get to the subject of the Spanish Royal Palace, I am pleased to announce that the pace of disintegration at my own palace is abating. For a moment there I thought I might have to move again, doomed to repeat history. Miguel, el electricista, and I are on a first name basis; he’s plugged right into my speed dial. Which was handy the other day when flames were coming out of the adapter for my hair dryer. Muy mal. Fortunately, my hair did not catch fire and the appliance itself was salvaged. Miguel changed the plug for free, he likes me that much. He is rather like a fuzzy teddy bear. Plus, he is nice.

Moving on to more elaborate accomodations …. For Thing 1’s sixteenth birthday her BFF from third grade flew in from Norway, arriving with a stomache bug of the pernicious, debilitating sort. So Thing 1 stayed home to nurse the BFF and study for finals instead of going on a tour of the Royal Palace with the uber-fancy schmancy tour guide Cristina. I had booked Cristina for Leezer and Mood Ring Momma’s visit but had had to cancel when Mood Ring blew her back out last November. Cancelling a second time would be poor form so just me, Mr. Understanding and Thing 3 were the beneficiaries of the tour.

I am not going to tell you about the palace, the differences between the Philips (chin vs. nose v. handsome), Juana La Loca, and the mosaic table that took 32 years to make (a gift from the Vatican). You will have to see for yourself. The chandeliers in the throne room are my favorite but there are many to choose from – take your pick from! Unlike Versailles, everything in there is original. Original! The French, led by Napoleon, sacked their own palace and destroyed much of it. Not so the Spanish who did not touch it even during their civil war. Versailles has its gardens and a coolio chapel but the Spanish Royal Palace has everything else. The palace in Madrid is one of five royal residences and, sister, I intend to see them all as they are within driving distance. Que bueno, no?

One of the benefits of the two hour and a half history lesson with Cristina? You get to go in a side door and skip the long freakin’ line in front. Skipping the front of the line legally!!! Who would have thought??? Totally worth the price of the tour and admission. Book Cristina here: cc@capture-spain.com. She’ll take you anywhere in Madrid and keep your Philips straight too. (BTW, did you know The Philippines was* named after one of the many Spanish Phils?). Thing 3 was just relieved to find out, after the tour, that she did not have to marry her cousin at age 13 (a la Joanna the Mad). Maybe all that in-breeding is the cause of national surliness?

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The media attention span for Haiti was about two weeks. While it is more or less out of the limelight, the hideous, agonizing work continues. The good news is that plans are being formulated and more food is being distributed. I asked La Lopez, my UN insider, how nation-building was going. Here’s her reply:

“As far as nation-building, we’re not quite there yet. The humanitarian part is just now hitting a [it’s] stride. The basic infrastructure is still lacking, and many people are dying from infections from their wounds. Some very initial estimates say that about 75% of the capital has to be rebuilt.

The government is still overwhelmed, and international pressure is not helping them to focus. Countries, donors, neighbors, NGOs, the UN and many, many others, are pressing ahead, asking the Haitian government (GOH) to participate at the highest level on every issue. They are trying, as best they can. The Montreal donors conference last Monday was the first pledge of aid;  the second is in March, and a global conference for the reconstruction of Haiti will be held in the Dominican Republic on April 18. The money is there. They’ve just got to agree on the best plan for putting it to work to build a better country than what was there before.”

Somehow, I think the Royal Palace in P-A-P is going to be scrapped. What will be put up in it’s place? And, who pays for it?

***********

Getting back to those resolutions …. here is my January wrap-up.

1) I have not needlepointed a stitch in 3 weeks. This does not bode well.

2) I am taking a writing course, which, in theory, will help me send off something/anything to a publisher before the end of 2010. Can tick that box for now.

3) expense tracking is going very well. I have not had to ask permission from anyone to buy something so that means – gasp! – I haven’t bought anything besides gas, groceries, or Girl Scout cookies (thanks to Mrs. Nato!). Tag-a-longs just don’t count.

And, not to tell tales out of school, one reader who pledged a healthier lifestyle in 2010 lost 16 pounds in January alone. Should that person care to inspire others, well, just write on in, ya big loser.

Currently, I am also distracted by having to take my driver’s test later this month, the acquisition of which should really count as a resolution even though I am being forced to do it. Sort of like housekeeping. I don’t want to, but I have to …. should count for something, right? My prize: not being hauled off to jail should I commit a traffic infraction. Daily, I spend 1 – 1.5 hours taking practice tests in mind-bending Spanglish.

Here is a sample question:

Q: “For a proper use of the seat belt” …

A: A: You must not place anything on the seat in order to avoid the submarine effect.

B: If necessary, you can place a cushion on the seat in order to reach the proper hight [sic].

C: you must disconnect the airbag because the seat belt will not work properly when the vehicle has an airbag.

Submarine effect? Explained later as …

Q: The submarine effect is produced ….

A: A: when the seat belt is very tight on the body.

B: when the head rest is not well adjusted

C: when the boby [sic] slips under the abdominal band because the seat belt does does [sic] not hold it properly.

I am trying not to whine seeing how foreign residents, even illegal ones, have to take the driver’s test when moving to our fair 50 states but this is much harder. The difference between braking systems, motorcyle permits, and who has the right of way at a cattle crossing are concepts I just don’t care that much about.

That’s it for this week. Miguel needs to cut off the electricity …. he’s here again to fix my crumbing castle. Be it ever so humble.

*were? You tell me.

January 27, 2010

Count Dracula and Other Blood Suckers: Give a Pint Instead

Per Raftbuddy’s request – a little escapist humor. All the downer news is at the bottom.

********

How often do you get two Transylvanian taxi drivers in the space of one week? If 2010 hadn’t already started out any weirder, this would have sealed the deal. Both drivers spoke a slightly off version of Spanish and both mentioned Count Dracula’s castle …. [pipe in Vincent Price’s voice right here]. Like I wouldn’t have known! What else is there in Transylvania? And just exactly where is it?

To add to the strangeness of the new year, two Spanish (well, at least I think they were, but maybe they too were Transylvanian) cashiers were actually nice to me last week. One offered me a discount card (price: 9 Euros) at the tintorreria’s. Can you believe? It was not La Mentirosa but the other one. Then The Dreaded Carrefour cashier lady offered me one (price: free)! Will wonders never cease?! She actually asked me “why” I did not have one. Why? Because no one, in the preceding 10 years, has ever offered me one, that’s why! At the gym, in a fit of liberation, I cancelled my membership (how’s that for an anti-resolution?) but not one “why” from from the male Spanish cashier. Which would be part of the reason I cancelled my membership and signed up at another one, where all the madres from la escuela sweat it out. All of these new cards will join my favorite discount card in Spain: el Museu del Jamon. Andale, pues!

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I have a new helper, Esmeralda, from Colombia. She kisses me hello and good-bye, something new in a maid. She has worked for the same Spanish family for 10 years – her four sons all live in Colombia, where her mother has raised them. There is a story there but it will eventually tell itself. I am trying not to be nosy.

Recently, I finished reading The Help by Kathryn Stockett, per Flaky Friend’s recommendation, which examines the roles of black servants and white employers in the deep South in the early Sixties. I have been ruminating on it ever since. Like the rest of America, I loved it, all of it. Rumor has it that it is especially wonderful to listen to as well. It helped pulled me out of my funk. (That and a can of Flarp.)

I, myself, could write a book about domestic help. “My Life in Maids”, by the Expat Princess, however, does not have the same story arc, despite the fact that many of the non-racial domestic help issues are familiar. As a child of the early Sixties, I grew up in a different part of America and there were no maids in my neck of the redwoods. If my mother was lucky, sometimes she found the one college student who was not too stoned to clean the bathrooms (this was a bit later, the Seventies) but mainly, it was my mother who cleaned the house and later, my sisters and I were forced to help out. (Can you hear already my mother’s fingers as they hit the keyboard? Insert here her claim that we did nothing.) As I have said many, many times, I know how to clean a toilet and I can do it well. There is nothing I would ask a maid to do that I would not or could not do myself. Well, okay, maybe windows … I’m just disorganized and hate to iron – that’s my problem. A little less Starbucks, a little more starch in my ironed sheets. The Deep Cleaning Class for Children starts this Saturday, starring Esmeralda and the Things. So, God Bless, Esmeralda who is a real pro.

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Last week, I incorrectly gave the URL for Charity Navigator. I have corrected it and will now repeat it: www.charitynavigator.org. This is important for the following reason.

When we lived in China, we participated in a charity called Heart2Heart Shanghai – www.heart2heartshanghai.com. Thing 1 is continuing to support them as part of her service project for the International Baccalaureate diploma. The organization provides surgeries to low-income Chinese children who suffer from easily reparable congenital heart defects. To raise money, the organization sells teddy bears, assembled by volunteers, dressed in hand knit cardigans, also crafted by volunteers. There is no paid staff and really, in the PRC, there is no framework for charitable organizations. (For example, you cannot deduct a donation to them on your taxes – the charity doesn’t “exist” so therefore neither does the donation.)

In researching the market for bears in Spain, I was told that most Mainland Chinese would not support a charity benefitting Chinese since they donated a lot of money for relief efforts after the 2008 Sichuan quake and the money did not reach the victims. Once bitten, twice shy are the Chinese living in Spain. Which is a terrible, terrible shame – a travesty that there is no willingness to try again to help a fellow countrykid out and that the money did not reach it’s intended recipients. In the blogosphere, however, there is Charity Navigator which susses the organizations out for so you; credibility is important when you are passing out cash.

I have also been chatting up my friends and family to sponsor a child from Haiti via World Vision or Save the Children for roughly $30 a month. Until the dust settles, this is a measurable way to help, especially, the orphans. Before the quake, our family had decided to skip our post-church Starbucks run and “adopt” another child. Sorry, Howard [Schultz] and Klab. If you don’t want to sponsor a child, the purchase of five ducks, a goose, or a cow can do much to help a family or community. Martita used to receive a goat every year for Christmas through Heifer Project International (3 stars), fodder for many jokes. But then MCV gave me the rear end of an ass/ ass end of a donkey for Christmas, one of my all-time favorite gifts, notwithstanding the fact that this time the joke is on me. It might just be on Starbucks too – as an employer, I think they match contributions to Save the Children. Think about it next year for Christmas.

To end on an upbeat note, I’ll skip the section on the child/human trafficking that is starting to occur in Haiti. (Just one more reason to send more US Marines. That Italian dude who has been sounding off about our military showboating can just stick a can of Flarp in his piehole.) I will leave you with my personal favorite, all-time best, uncensored Chinglish name to come out of Asia: Creamy Lay. I’ll still laughing myself.

Questions for the week: What is your favorite discount card? How are you doing on your resolutions? I am doing terribly!

January 21, 2010

Shingles Redux and other Trigger Points

Since the last time I wrote, life has improved considerably, at least for me. No Caviezel, today I thought I had shingles again, but no, just a blog-induced muscle spasm. Praise be to God! As He is my witness, I did not think I could endure that again. So fixated was I on obtaining the H1N1 vaccination, it never even crossed my mind to get a shingles vaccination while in the US. WHAT WAS I THINKING? I have now been scared straight and will not make this mistake again.

But no complaining here – the earthquake in Haiti wiped that form of expression off the face of the earth for the time being. You all see the news but I thought I would share with you some of my emails over the past week with La Lopez, Thing 2’s “other mother” as some of you readers may recall. La Lopez works for a branch of the UN. In late August of 2008, she hunkered down during Hurricane Hanna at the Hotel Montana in Haiti and, post-tempest, lunched with George Soros and President Preval, trying to sell the concept of “state-building”.

Two years later, La Lopez is trying to pedal the concept again, now literally, as the country will have to be razed and started again from scratch. With her permission, I have cut and pasted some of our emails, taking a few liberties for the sake of flow, and have constructed an interview based on my own questions for your general edification. And if I’ve gotten anything wrong, I hope she’ll point it out.

Me: So what exactly is “state-building”?

La Lopez: State-building is what I’ve been personally proposing to the president and prime minister for about two years now. They have to identify their top 20 technicians in every critical area – economy, infrastructure, security, etc. – and we train them. We already put together donors, trainers, etc. They never get around to acting on it due to incompetence, corruption, inertia. There is more aid per capita to Haiti than in any place in the world save India. The Haitians have to return a lot of it per year because they lack the capacity to absorb it. Right now, we (UN) and others are going to have to select the people, train them, and convince them to use this capability once it’s ready.

Me: Why should we continue to give money to Haiti, if they didn’t take your good advice in 2008? Isn’t that like throwing good money after bad?

La Lopez: We and others don’t really throw good money after bad. Our donation structures and rules, like those of the Canadians and Europeans, are so strict, that each year Haiti has to give a lot back if it can’t be used properly or absorbed. I’ve seen the money at work. It’s not how I would use it (I’m extremely frugal, organized and pragmatic – governments aren’t) but it’s not being wasted either. The 10,000 NGOs that work in Haiti do incredible work as well. But, I believe institution building is fundamental, otherwise it’s just creating dependency. Give them a fish and they’ll have fish for a day. Teach them to fish and they’ll have fish for live. That’s what we in UN development programs do, or at least try to.

Hello, America? Can we ask for some of the cash back if it’s not used? It’s not like we can’t afford not to account for it.

Also, I am not a fan of George Soros, for a variety of reasons I will not recount here. But, in the interests of open-mindedness I asked La Lopez why I should try to like him.

Me: Tell me one good thing about George Soros.

La Lopez: Soros gives his money away to help Haiti build their institutions. He finds honest, well-meaning and transparent people with credibility and promotes them and gives them money to work with. He spends a lot of money on Haitian kids, building schools and sports facilities. He does it all around the world. He’s a good guy.

Me: what did you and George have for lunch in 2008 at the Presidential Palace?

La Lopez: It was a buffet actually, kind of a curry sauce over chicken, and some fluffy white rice and vegetables. Very austere. We had to serve ourselves. What was spectacular were the orchids in the living room area. Haiti had received some serious investment from US and other flower growers and had begun a fairly sophisticated orchid export business, with refrigerated containers, etc. Preval had some in the palace that he used to show the good that investments can do.

Me: La Lopez, do you have any recommended reading?

La Lopez: “Dead Aid” by the African banker-turned-author Dambisa Moyo, who argues that aid dependency is killing many countries who don’t have strong enough institutions to make it work.

La Lopez also sent me this link today: www.nytimes.com/2010/01/21/opinion/21kristof.html?th&emc=th

George Soros’ aid foundation in Haiti: www.fokal.org.

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I have spent a lot of time also pondering how it is that we so quickly forgot the 8.0 magnitude Sichuan earthquake in China in 2008 that killed 70,000 or so people, many of them school children and left millions homeless. Perhaps it is the “free press” and the access one has to another country. Because Haiti has no censorship, allowed news organizations to cover the disaster, and begged for help, the amount of coverage and intensity of it is much different than it was in the PRC. Perhaps the PRC should take note. Does lack of press coverage dilute our empathy and foster our collective memory loss? Are we inured to pain and misery after oh, say a week? What is our saturation point? BTdubs, kudos to the United States military for their excellent response in marshalling the chaos. Just imagine if they had been allowed into China.

My number one reason for being an expat princess: meeting folks like La Lopez. She is a real person making a real difference.

Remember to check www.charitynavigator.net to rate your charities. Accept nothing less than 4 stars.

January 13, 2010

Funkytown

Christmas let-down is in full swing here in Madrid. Re-entry is always hard, but particularly so after the holidays in the Land of Plenty. Winter is my least favorite season, the darkness and stormy weather coloring my mood. Gray, gray, and more gray. Combined with yet another house falling apart at the seams, the housekeeper Olivia from Bolivia who took her Reyes gifts (including that pink tutu featured in the last post) and ran, the children still home from school, and it makes for one grumpy princess. The house is a story for another day but for now, I will take you back in time to sunny-but-cold Florida to recreate the warmth and joy of those two weeks. Perhaps the glow from remembering it all will cure my grumps, something only a good electrician and a new stove top can do for certain at this point.

We arrived at Casa Hodge Podge, our cottage in my in-law’s gated community in North Florida, in the early morning hours of December 18. Purchased when leaving Brazil for China, Casa Hodge Podge served a variety of objectives: proximity to family, furniture storage for items we could not take to China, and an investment (we thought that property values in Florida had bottomed out but sadly, no). 2008 and 2009 did the market in. Whatever, it is a lovely little cottage. We, however, had never visited it, just seen photos.

A good purchase, it was comforting to see some of our things, which made it seem like home from the get-go. A pre-lit fake tree with Target trimmings, a wreath on the door, and pointsettias in Mexican pots and it was positively festive. A five minute walk from the grandparents’ house, our children traipsed back and forth during the day, ping ponging as suited them. The grands would come over with the dogs for coffee and Kringle (a delicious holiday pastry tradition). We would go over for a drink and dinner where I could spend hours gazing at Winnie’s Christmas tree; each time I find an ornament I hadn’t seen before. I cannot overstate what a lovely set up this was.

In between the Target runs and clothes shopping for the children who have grown six inches since summer, there were appointments with doctors. Mr. Understanding underwent arthroscopic surgery on his knee. We all visited Dr. Skin/ Warrop, Mr. Understanding’s sister, dermatologist to the stars. Biopsies were taken, pre-cancerous growths frozen, cells hoovered and peeled. Good times. Then there was the morning spent getting H1N1 shots, courtesy of the state of Florida. Movies were seen: Blind Side* and Avatar. Chex Mix was made and consumed.

And then there was the Christmas turkey, featured above. Not to toot my own horn, but as you can see, this was the most successful of all my holiday turkeys (dare I say it’s because it’s American?). A Butterball from the the Super Target, this gem weighed in at twenty pounds and cost only $18. My SIL** married to El Guapo Pescador prepared the stuffing, much to her credit, using a dull knife from Ikea (hint to future house guests). Can I just say that it was delicious, to the collective relief of the whole family? I did not doubt myself but there were others ….

One of the nice things about being an aunt from afar is that, like grandparents, you can spoil your nieces and nephews. I may be a witch of a mother but I like to be a fairy godmother of an aunt. I unashamedly, blatantly vy for affection, hoarding good will for the future. When my daughters are complaining about me as they tug on their wedding dresses, I want their cousins to be right there, counteracting all my motherly mojo, as in, “Your mom’s not so bad! Remember that time she bought me that can of Flarp?! Remember how much fun that was?”

So just what is Flarp? Bear, my 11 year old niece and goddaughter, while cruising the post-Christmas aisles at Michael’s craft store seized upon a can of Flarp and begged her father to buy it for her. He said no. Now, normally, I would think he would be in my camp on this sort of thing, but not this time. As the item only cost 99 cents, and Bear was coming home with me, I thought, “Why not?” (In my defense, I will say I did not know what I was buying – but how can you pass up joy for such a low price, I ask you?). Thing 3 made the stealthy purchase and we got in the car for the 40 minute ride home.

Now, before I go into an explanation of Flarp, I must preface it by saying a few things. One, Mr. Understanding comes from a long line of Ivy League educated blue-bloods. His family, if they so chose, could be members of not only the Mayflower Society, but the DAR. On both sides. I do not hold it against them. Among other reasons, I married Mr. Understanding for his outstanding manners, directly instilled by his parents. Me, I come from a shorter line of public school educated, potato famine escaping immigrants. This should explain the discrepancy in our senses of humors: high brow vs. low brow. My family delights in black (the color itself) humor; scatalogical is okay too. Mr. Understanding’s family probably holds this against me, for diluting the gene pool, so to speak. Two, because my in-laws (and this includes the SIL and BIL) are so upstanding, two words are never uttered in their household. Both begin with the letter “F”. One rhymes with “dart” and the other with “duck”. This is to their eternal credit. Neither word exists in their collective vocabulary. Three, I was raised on the west coast. Things are a little …. looser there, shall we say. My father, Poppy, was something of a genius prankster and regaled us girls with stories of dead sharks in sheets, colored swimming pools, and other nonsense. Both “f” words were occasionally said in our household; there was no moratorium against the one rhyming with “dart”. I am writing this entire post at the risk of offending Mr. Understanding’s family but I hope they will be generous and laugh off anything that might be construed as inappropriate. I am just flattered they read this blog and apologize in advance for any perceived rudeness or long-windedness on my part. They know I love them.

Flarp, which looks like a seemingly harmless can of fluorescent colored Silly Putty, is a whole lot of FUN. It gives new meaning to the term “can of whoop ass”. Defined by urbandictionary.com as “noise putty”, the purchaser can create a veritable symphony (some might say cacophony) of tones, emulating the sound of sulfuric compound gases as they move through and out the lower GI tract, ranging from low and slow to high and squeaky when properly manipulated. Forty minutes in a mini-van with five children have never passed so quickly! And imagine the joy that was spread as the can was produced at my inlaws! There may even have been an involuntary smile or two. This I will leave to the good readers imagination.

Suddenly, it was time to pack the suitcases again. If you can believe, I forgot to buy peanut butter (sacrilege). But the Flarp was in there – and at that price you can’t not buy it for every child you know. Even Jesus would approve – “make a joyful noise unto the Lord”. Maybe I’ll open up my own can and get myself right out of my post-Christmas funk. You know where to get yours.

*Sandra deserves a gold statue for that role.

** if only she would name herself!

January 7, 2010

Re-entry, Reyes, and Resolutions, or: You ‘ll Go to the Prado and Like it, D@mn It!

Glad tidings, readers, for 2010!

Although mostly over the jet lag from our foray into the Land of Not So Much Plenty Anymore, I am still wrestling with situational chaos (my house), three Things still home from school, and new resolutions rolling around in my brain. Re-entry is always a bitch. Let me spell that again: b-i-t-c-h. Yes, we went through Newark – twelve hours before it was shut down. The TSA snipped off the zippers on 2 suitcases and between them and the child who looked like Dougie Howser flying the plane on very little sleep, both they and Continental Airlines will be soon enjoying a post-holiday reaming from moi. The grocery stores and malls were clogged with shoppers panicking before their big day of celebration, Three Kings Day or Los Reyes Magos, or Epiphany to you. My big epiphany: come back to Spain after the 6th or sufficiently in advance to miss the cluster-yahoo created by traffic circles, bread shaped like a crown with a plastic toy king inside, and procrastinating parents vying to get inside the local Toys-R-Us.

Knowing, as I do, how much I loathe re-entry, I immediately drummed up a lunch date and tour of the Prado with Skinny Swede and our mutual Things. As an expat, it is imperative that one has something to look forward to after a trip to the homeland because, as the previous paragraph attests, almost everything makes one a supergrump. (I will save my story of the morning after clash with the grocery store cashier for another time – let me just say that, although Jesus would not have been proud of me, I was victorious in the end and there is nothing I enjoy more than proving a point and being right about it). So, yesterday, off to the Prado we marched since none of the Things had ever been there and I needed immediate re-inforcement of one good reason for living here in Madrid.

Mrs. Nato, down the street, had suggested to get the hour tour of the museum’s 15 masterpieces. Perfect for a group of teenagers with the attention span of toddlers and as great an aversion, right? “Gerry” (a.k.a. Gerardo) paraded us about, starting with the Flemish painters Brueghel the Elder and Hieronymous Bosch before moving on to Raphael, Fra Angelico, Sorolla (my personal fave), Goya, and Velazquez. The museum was crowded but not horrifically so. An hour with “Gerry” was just perfect. Strangely, my two teen Things liked the Flemish painters the best, not put off by Brueghel’s interpretation of death (an army of skulls skirmishing with the living) or the description of the imagery of a knife between two ears as a p!nis emerging from t!sticles* in the third part of the tryptich documenting hell. Sixty euros may seem like a lot for a tour but really, you can’t buy that kind of education.

During a post-tour beverage in the museum cafe, Skinny Swede told us about her family’s resolutions for the new year. One of the things I like about Skinny Swede is that she makes me look like a pussy cat of a mother, an absolute slouch. For example, this year, she is giving each of her two Things a certain amount of money (relatively substantial) which they have to use to plan a family activity, soup to nuts. They have to decide on an activity, figure out transportation, schedules, everything – an education in planning and execution. In November she gave her teen Thing the task of finding the local village square, armed only with a map, the entire family in tow. Five minutes away from their home, the trip took them over two hours. Map reading, what a novel idea! I am thinking of filching an idea or two of hers to improve my own parenting skills, so profound is my admiration.

And speaking of self-improvement, I have finally formulated my resolutions**:

1) finish Thing 3’s needlepoint stocking. I have had this on my list for the last four years but moved several times in that period so that was always my excuse. No more.

2) write something (?) and send it out for publication. At age 45, I think I am finally tough enough for a little rejection. The question is, what to write? Current ideas: finish/rewrite my project (still don’t know what to call it) based on the murder of a girl brutally murdered in Brazil. This one would take a lot of work. The suspects have, I think, been recently acquitted, in OJ Simpson fashion. Other ideas: travel articles or my actual memoirs (which means I can’t use all the good stuff here). I am open to suggestions, readers. Bottom line for you: I am only going to blog once a week.

3) expense tracking and asking a family member for permission before I buy something for myself in an effort to distinguish between need vs. want. My children are actually very good at this and have talked me out of a lot of cool stuff. Before leaving the US and the start of 2010, however, I stocked up on numerous needed items, displayed in the photo above. Sweet Virginia gets credit for the idea of photographing suitcase contents. I challenge you to tell me what I don’t need. (There are a few gifts in there too).

Wrapping it all up, I am looking forward to the start of the new year. By October, I will not be so thrilled as we face college applications for Thing 1, high school for Thing 2, and more mean girls for Thing 3. Right now I am going downstairs to put away my Christmas decorations since the Kings have come and gone, start some laundry, and look at the snow falling outside our cottage in Madrid. My next post will be a Christmas retrospective, complete with a photo of an American turkey. It was the best.

Questions for you (answer all to gain bonus points): what are your resolutions (and don’t be snarky and say you resolve not to resolve)? what should I write about in 2010? what in the photo above do I not need (hint: it is not the pink tutu for the housekeeper’s daughter – that was essential)?

Per “Gerry”. ! = e to avoid spammers.
** The Radish turned me onto this site for resolution making: 6changes.com/post/288806664/suggested

December 15, 2009

Welcome to My Crib

Yesterday was a banner day of sorts. Another awesome care package from KT of Tennessee (traveling time = 13 days) filled with Christmas candy and goodies. A mail pouch with two, count ‘em, two Christmas cards. My first card, included in the package, was from KT. The second came from MX (I like to think of it as the 51st state) and the third from Gamamae of MA. All lovely in different ways!

Gamamae’s, however, showed particular effort. A collage of family photos, the inside was personalized and FUN. Included was a poem (?) by one Oren Arnold, of whom I know nothing about. But I love the sentiment so much that I am reproducing it here for your general well-being, edification, and enlightenment. Gracias, Gammy!

“Christmas gift suggestions:
To your enemy, forgiveness.
To an opponent, tolerance.
To a friend, your heart.
To a customer, service.
To all, charity.
To every child, a good example.
To yourself, respect.”

Cheers to all my dear readers. I am off to the Land of Not-So-Plenty and am taking a hiatus until ….? I have been blogging for three years – two years, and two moves, longer than I said I would. It has been a mighty discipline to this most undisciplined of princesses. In the above photo, is my Spanish/Brazilian/American Christmas tree, the only one I am putting up in Madrid. It is adorned with a collection of White House ornaments given to me by Flaky Friend. These are my favorite Christmas ornaments*. No matter the administration, our mutual love for the White House and all it stands for, is a bond we share. I am so looking forward to this year’s – it’s a winner. HAPPY BIRTHDAY, FLAKY FRIEND! See you in 2010.

Question: are you traveling to be with family this Christmas?

*Next to the one I get every year from Mr. Understanding.

December 10, 2009

Danke Schoen, Darling, Danke Schoen

All I remember about the Wayne Newton song “Danke Schoen” from law school is that it was the subject of a Supreme Court (?) contracts case (?). Wayne, it turns out, was singing the song all wrong. “Schoen” should be pronouned “shun”, not “shayne”, as in the following sentence: “Should Tiger Woods be shunned by his corporate sponsors for his less than upstanding behaviour and nefarious connections?” My children were only too happy to point out my lack of linguistic skills this past weekend in Frankfurt, Germany.

After hearing Bea Long and MCV wax on about the German Christmas markets, I just knew that a trip to the Vaterland would put even the loneliest of teens in the Christmas spirit. It certainly would me. What’s not to like about schnapps, schnitzel, and over-the-top decorations? There’s nothing like a good frankfurter to put a spring in the shopping step!

New to the world of cut rate airline tickets, Mr. Understanding and I scoured the websites of easyjet.com and Ryanair. Our easyjet flight to Paris was such a success that we tried Ryanair, since easyjet doesn’t fly to Frankfurt. An amazing deal, the tickets to Frankfurt Hahn cost next to nothing for a family of five. My credit card misbehaving (not my fault), Mr. Understanding booked the tickets. Most of the hotels in Frankfurt were full but, via Expedia in Spain, I booked two rooms at the Westin; they assured me they would try to have the rooms connect. The Expedia rep spoke English and was extremely friendly – a good thing, as their website is not for those traveling with families.

An hour before we left for the airport, Mr. Understanding looked at the tickets and thought there was something wrong. A quick investigation determined that the airport of Frankfurt Hahn was an hour and a half away from Frankfurt am Main, the city commonly referred to as Frankfurt. RyanAir, being a budget airline, does not have clearance to land in the nation’s airport hub, just like easyjet. Hmmm …. what to do? We ordered a hotel van, the whooshing sound of money leaving our bank account making my stomach sick. Detlef the driver, formerly from the land behind the wall, came to our rescue. I do not know where the rest of the passengers from the completely packed airplane went but disperse they did, even the two week old baby in the Carolina Herrera baby buggy, presumably via friends or buses. Frankfurt Hahn is squarely in the middle of nowhere.

After negotiating with the desk clerk, we managed to obtain side by side rooms on the same floor (but not connecting), way in the back of beyond of the nearly empty hotel. I love connecting rooms. I love connecting rooms with cots for extra children. But this time, the sucking air financial wound fresh, I forewent the extra 35 Euro bed: it was girls in one room, boys in the other, and the Princess had to share a bed.

One thing I love about traveling is talking to taxi drivers, at least native taxi drivers. Usually a wealth of information, Detlef was no different. He pointed us in the direction of all our our meals, gave us a short personal history, including stories of two escapes as a child from East Germany and how he met his Korean wife, along with the nicknames of Frankfurt (Mainhattan, Bankfurt). The first evening, at Detlef’s behest, we went to Adolf Wagner, a rousing restaurant with family style seating. We sat next to three American men from Maryland, all former policemen. Adolf Wagner’s schnitzel and potatoes are, frankly, unrivaled and, if you are a foodie, worth the trip to Frankfurt alone. Adolf Wagner, like the restaurant next door, Zum Gemalten Haus, does not serve beer, only the local apfelwein. Detlef, to his eternal credit, was clear on this. Apfelwein, or apple wine, is not taxed, unlike beer. Served in a blue painted jug along with specially crafted glasses, it smells rather like the inside of a barn, the taste being similar. The apple champagne, twice as alcoholic as the wein, was infinitely better. A table of Germans behind us having their holiday white elephant gift exchange were on apfelwein and Jaegermeister overload, whooping it up.

The next day we strolled in the rain through the stalls at the Frohweinachtmarkt, which runs from the main shopping pedestrian street down through the platz and deadends at the river Main. A generally acknowledged atheist nation, the German Christmas market is nevertheless a time honored tradition and money maker. Cups of gluhwein (hot spiced wine) and kinderpunch in hand from the Lions International booth, we ogled and ogled. No one had told me much about the killer food: nutella crepes with bananas and Cointreau, chocolate covered fruit and marshmallows (kusse), bratwurst in a baguette, gingerbread hearts decorated in frosting, wrapped in cellophane and tied up in ribbon – no need to eat at the hotel. One girl wore a giant gingerbread heart which said “Ich Liebe Diech” around her neck as she held her boyfriend’s hand. Glass ornaments, tin and wooden toys, handicrafts – a shopper’s paradise.

Our all-time best ever public toileting experience came from the public restrooms, “Toi Toi”, in the market. For 1.5 euros, a girl can pay to pee in serenity. Clean! Staffed and equipped! Men get in for free! Perhaps discriminatory, but who cares? There’s even a squatty potty for those missing China.

And then there were the stalls with the Buddha heads. This I don’t get. Who gives a Buddha for Christmas? Apparently, plenty of people. Maybe all the German men with Asian wives – have you noticed it is never the other way around? Thai restaurants almost outnumber the schnitzel haus’. Outside the merriment of the Christmas market, there is a strange, inexplicable, oppressive feeling in Frankfurt. Many of the buildings are new – the rest were bombed in WW2. A few pockets of old buildings exist, nestled in the city. The churches are darkened. The ruins of Roman bath’s outside St. Bartholomew’s cathedral only add to the battleground feeling of Charlemagne’s “ford of the Franks” and the long march of time. According to Wikipedia, part of St. Bart’s skull resides in the cathedral; St. Bart was one of Jesus’ twelve apostles and legend has it that he was flayed alived and crucified upside down. The Jewish synagogue destroyed on Kristallnacht in 1938 has been rebuilt. Once home to 30,000 Jews, now only 7,000 live in the city.

In the van on the ride back to Frankfurt Hahn, Thing 3 said to me, “Mommy, I could have bought a lot more.” Me too. I left one happy hausfrau, filled with the Christmas spirit and a cup of cheer. Next year, Nuremburg, if I can convince Bea aLong. Maybe my next trip to Frankfurt am Main will be for the book fair to sell my book? In the meantime, danke schoen, Frankfurt, for both the joy and pain. Next time, I’ll pay the big bucks to land in the right airport.

Question: Do you have a favorite Christmas ornament or decoration? Or do you just dust off your old Buddhas?

Links:

www.waynenewton.com
www.frankfurt-tourismus.de
www.apfelwein-wagner.com
www.zumgemaltenhaus.de
www.lions-international.com

December 3, 2009

Compare/Contrast Thanksgiving

Where are my castanets?

Piece de la Resistance

Two Thanksgiving dinners. A Spanish turkey and a French turkey. Only one American family. Swedes, Mexicans, and Brits, most of whom had never celebrated Thanksgiving before. After the 4th of July, Thanksgiving is the hardest American holiday to celebrate abroad, mainly because it is so food specific. I just couldn’t pull it off in Brazil, for example – too hot to stay in an un-airconditioned kitchen, even if you could de-pickle the turkey. Not to mention the fact you can never find the right food: no cans of pumpkin puree or cranberry in Latin America. China, amazingly, had both. Vis a vis the poultry, as my photos amply demonstrate, I have not cooked enough turkeys over the years to overcome foreign obstacles; given cooler climates I will persist.

The Spanish turkey, for example, had most of the neck on it and was scrawny at 4 kilos. The Skinny Swede and I each cooked one. She tied the legs of hers together with foil. I did not, kitchen twine not being in stock. I, however, used a Williams Sonoma flavor injector and, although the bird was splayed, it was flavorful and moist. The head of the baby you see emerging from my turkey is an apple. The Skinny Swede’s husband brought fresh cranberries in his suitcase from Philly so we had fresh cranberry relish. That alone almost made the meal. Then there was the wild rice and “duck butter”, the latter of which is a recipe my grandfather picked up from a Minnesotan while they were on a ship in the merchant marines together in WWII. Numerous bottles of wine, new friends, Swedish love cake, Tres Leches, and staying up past our collective bed times – next year demands a repeat performance.

Then there was the French turkey, cooked this past Sunday and purchased by my friend BananaJo at the American School of Paris. (We met the British BananaJo family in Brazil.) Double the size than the Spanish turkey, it was a much cleaner bird and it’s neck was chopped off closer to its base. The French, as we all know, know their way around a guillotine. I got up at 7:30 Sunday morning, after an evening out with the families at Cremerie Restaurant Polidor, to wrangle the poultry into the oven, after first smearing the inside of skin with herbs and butter. It barely fit in the oven. Again confronted with the question of the legs, which, I might add, were naturally tighter together, I googled how to tie them together. BananaJo has even fewer cooking accoutrements than me and I could not find the twine she said she had in her kitchen. Solution: unwaxed dental floss. This worked well enough but was rather thin and I had to really wind it around. Bronzed, gleaming, the finished product was a work of art and delicious to boot. The side dishes were typically British: cauliflower with cheese sauce, brussel sprouts, yams, stuffing, carrots, most of which was prepared by Mr. BananaJo. BananaJo bought escargot for hors d’ouevres, which I actually tried. Unlike Thing 2, I did not gag. Nor did I when she forced me to eat a brussel sprout. Mr. Understanding carved the turkey and forced everyone to eat cranberry from a can. The pecan pie, a first for the Brits, was pronounced yummy. Next year demands a repeat performance. Perhaps BananaJo can fit a French turkey in her suitcase?

Like my new-fangled flavor injector, Thanksgiving in Paris with old friends was a much-needed shot to my psyche. It was not just the Eiffel Tower, the Christmas lights, and the Champs Elysee. Walking arm-in-arm with teen Thing 1 through the grounds of Versailles during dusk, after a lunch at La Flottille, a restaurant inside in the park, and sharing her iPod, one ear bud a piece, and listening to the theme song from Mulan was exhilarating. Previously, I had been thinking that Europe was wasted on teenagers but it’s not. Paris certainly isn’t. I forced BananaJo to take me to the Flea Markets, which, once we got to the correct arrondissement, was just as good as Martha Stewart proclaims. Champagne with lunch, shopping, and old friends, can it get any better? Je ne pense pas. But next year, I’ll remember to order the kitchen twine …

Question of the month (?): what is your favorite Thanksgiving dish?

November 16, 2009

The Museum of Ham, Health Care, and My Most Expensive Infection – Ever*

As I wrote awhile ago, I am not impressed with socialized medicine. Normally, I refrain from writing about incendiary subjects but this one does have to do with being an expat. Disagree with me, as is your right, I am just here to tell you that, having witnessed it, it is not pretty. For the sake of this discussion on a possible government health care plan in the United States, the focus will only be on the level, or lack thereof, of medical care in the socialized countries in which I have lived. I wrote this last week, sat on it, and did not post it because I did not want to inflame passions. But the urge is still there. Why? Because, as I have pondered this for a week, I want to spare my readers a similar fate. Go back and read the thesis so we are clear on this. Maybe the same thing has happened to you in America but I have had few bad experiences there so I am not really a good judge on that front.

But before I take you on a trip to the local ER, I think it is only fair to expose my own biases, even at the risk of being flambeed by my readership, let me lay before you a few facts which influence my opinion. Your personal bias, as you read this, will naturally influence your own opinion. Here they are:

1) a father who, as a lawyer, defends insurance companies, mainly automobile accidents
2) former employment as automobile insurance (personal injury) adjuster in Maryland and Florida
3) eldest daughter, born with genetic syndrome
4) same daughter who receives treatment for said syndrome annually at Johns Hopkins Hospital with world-reknowned pediatric cardiologist/geneticist
5) two nephews with rare, unrelated genetic disorders; these disorders are unrelated to each other and to that of my child
6) my father had his kidney, and its malignant tumor, removed within 3 days of it being diagnosed in the United States
7) first-hand experience in hospitals in the US, Mexico, Brasil, China, and now Spain -
8) we have health insurance via my husband’s employer in the US
9) although we pay taxes in Spain, we do not apparently pay enough and so do not qualify for their socialized medicine program. We are legal immigrants.
10) I am not a germaphobe – although I encourage my children to wash their hands and not use hand rails if at all possible but the five second rule for food is fine with me (except in China).

Every year, my daughter and I, sometimes the whole family, travels to Baltimore to see her set of specialists. We are very blessed for a variety of reasons: we have insurance, generally have the means to travel there, and have access to the world’s best doctor, the latter of which is stupendously serendipitous. Not to mention having friends in that fair city, having been a former resident. Mr. Understanding works very hard, in part, to provide our daughter with the best treatment possible. We pay for the trip out of our own pocket. Thus far treatment has been minimally invasive, a true best case scenario. In any event, Mr. Understanding has an incentive beyond filling our coffers. In the US during the summers, we also have physicals with the local doc-in-a-box or get treated for the occasional illness such as shingles. Sometimes I even have an organ removed (there are getting fewer and fewer). I am generally pleased with the situation.

Contrast that with Spain, a “First World” country with socialized medical care. To me, medical care here is on par with its restaurant service. Pretend you are having lunch in the restaurant, Museo de Jamon (Ham Museum), a large franchise with relatively inexpensive, simple fare; rows upon rows of cured ham hocks dangle from the ceiling, veritable pork garlands, little plastic cones inserted at the ends to prevent oil from spilling out. There is no tipping for service in Spain. As a result, grumpy waiters deign to take orders, forget half the food, and slam plates down on the customer’s table in random fashion as the plates are prepared, sort of like in China but worse (the Chinese aren’t snoots). Talk about your perdonavidas! The Museo de Jamon is always busy and the waiters always stressed, never smiling. They are not partial to tourists. So when a family of tourists sits down to eat, it is double grump.

Now we come to the TOO MUCH INFORMATION part of the post. If you are a male or my mother-in-law, just stop reading. But if you are a woman, put yourself in my shoes. For about a month, I had a little female problem. First, I self-medicated and, for the first time ever, probably exacerbated that particular situation. Very bad. So I called Expat Doctor to the Stars, explained my problem, and got a prescription, all without an internal exam (he is not a gyne) for 75 Euros. This was on October 13. After about a week of no improvement, I asked for a referral to a gynecologist. The next available appointment was November 18. Ruling out suicide, the next best option was the ER or a trip to the US, if the situation did not improve. Finally, and fortunately, the doctor wangled me an appointment with a gynecologist for October 25. Fab!

On the appointed date, after waiting an hour and watching no less than fifteen women come and go from the doctor’s office, it was my turn. In Spanglish, the doctor and I discussed the problem. After a quick, pseudo-exam, I was out of the office five minutes later with a new prescription. I forked over 100 Euros and left. A week later, the problem persisted, but had mutated slightly. The gynecologist recommended I go to the ER next door – she was too busy to see me.

And here is where it gets icky. After paying 350 Euros (approximately $550 USD), I sat down in Swine Flu Central, a hospital located within ten miles of my house. Feverish, hacking folks surrounded me with nary a face mask, bottle of hand sanitizer, or tissue in sight. GADZOOKS, I thought, good thing I’m getting those B12 shots! Finally escorted in, I met with a doctor, who told me to pee in a plastic cup. Ever the logistician, I wanted to know precisely what to do with the urine, since I was given no little personalized, computer generated label to afix to the plastic urn, no little handy wipe, no special room. “Go to the bathroom and then take it to the front desk.” GADZOOKS, I thought to myself, haven’t they heard of secret sample doors? I will not even describe the restroom but let me just say there were no paper towels and the hand dryer did not work. So, hooking my wet finger in the door latch, I swung open the door, and with my sample dried off via toilet paper, swanned off down the hall to the receptionist’s desk where I was told to put it on the counter. Where on the counter? Right there on top of the requisition order, the only piece of evidence that the urine belonged to me. Apparently, I did not dry the sample off completely because it left a little ring, I noticed, when the receptionist, ungloved, took it off the counter and told me to return to the waiting room. GADZOOKS. The results would be ready in an hour – they would call my name over the loudspeaker system.

In the meantime, I meandered down to the cafeteria for a quick coffee where the other customers were smoking, sucking back beers, and chewing on bocadillos. The smoke drove me back into the waiting room. After waiting two hours, I went back through the swinging doors and finally began to ask if the results were ready. After two and a half hours, I camped outside the doctor’s office. A different doctor was inside the exam room reading a magazine. He told me the result was not ready – they would call my name. He did not look at a computer screen or get out of his seat, barely lifting his head from the rag he was reading. After three hours, I went and stood in front of the receptionist’s desk. Perhaps my name had been called and I just did not understand it? The PA system of the hospital has speakers that function akin to every McDonald’s drive-in in America. Try deciphering your name pronounced in a foreign language on top of this. But no, my name had not been called. Then I saw the doctor who attended me. After much prodding she went and chased down the results. Nothing wrong with my test! Did she know what the problem could be, I asked? Nope. No idea. Better luck next time. Could I even feel certain they checked out my urine and not someone else’s????

When I got home that evening, I was $550 poorer, had no idea what was wrong with me, and discovered that my car had been keyed in the hospital parking lot. Nice. I could go on and on … because this is a subject I have thought a lot about over the years, sitting in various hospitals, both in the ER and in the surgical ward, around the globe, observing the level or lack of care. This is just one experience in Spain and it was not a truly dire situation. If there are others, I hope they will be better. But I know it won’t be, especially since Expat Doctor to the Stars worked as the head of this same ER for a year and gave up because he could not institute new, better, more hygienic practices.

Is this our American future? Where are we going to go for better health care when it ceases to exist? Nowhere else I’ve seen yet. And I am not saying things don’t need to fixed. But I am saying that other countries with socialized medicine do not do it better. I have seen it for myself. The above anecdote is just one of many, the latest and freshest. If, however, the US government ends up running our health care system, I suggest we rename all the hospitals “Museum of Hams” because there will be no incentive to be polite, the service will suck, and the fare will be rudimentary. Bring your own wipes. Print your own labels. Give the doctors your old People magazines. But maybe, just maybe, they will serve beer and wine in the cafeterias so we can all anesthetize ourselves while we wait. That’d take the edge off.

*The title refers to my post of 4/17/2007 – it is only funny to me, so don’t worry if you don’t get it. The case of shigella when pregnant in Mexico probably was more expensive, if I am being honest though …..

November 4, 2009

Day Tripper

There were many alternative titles for this post:

Fall Forward
Tripping the Light Fantastic
Cobble Stoned

Before the above titles suggested themselves, here were my ideas:

Parador Amor
Parador by the Dashboard Lights
J’adore Paradores
Come on’ to My Castle (sung to the old show tune)
I Am the Pink Dot

Can you guess any themes? Let’s just say, it is a good thing I travel with a first aid kit and drugs in my car. On the way home from a road trip/succssful pottery shopping outing to the town of El Puente de Arzobispo, Mood Ring Momma, Leezer and I stopped at a castle cum hotel (i.e. government run “parador” in Spain) we had passed on the way to have lunch.

At the adjacent table, three men were having a primarily liquid lunch and enjoying the view of the teutonic Leezer and Mood Ring. My back was to them so I was not privy to the high jinx. We ladies enjoyed a quick, delicious lunch with few alcoholic beverages. And this is key. The drive home was an hour and a half so there was no misbehaving. After lunch (sadly, the Spaniards did not pick up the tab), we went outside to check out the castle and the surrounding grounds. Outside the cobblestoned arch, which lead into the castle, was a park over looking the valley below, the sierra off in the distance. The sky was a pristine cerulean blue. We took photos for a traveling American couple and they returned the favor. The castle itself opened at 4 so we planned a quick trip up the tower before leaving.

Mood Ring Momma, engrossed in architecture, failed to note the archaic stone lip bordering the park and, apparently in an effort to save her camera, fell to the ground, twisting her back in the process. It was an awful moment – there is no sugar coating it. The American woman, a nurse, started asking questions. A Spanish doctor had her husband call the local medical center. After ten minutes of agony on the ground, MRM was able to manuever herself to the car and wash down some of my handy back candy (no, it is not oxycontin). At home, we instituted a regime of ice and heat and Chinese medicine until the local doctor, a Canadian who lives in my neighborhood, came by to make sure nothing was broken and give her some drugs. Now is not the point in the blog when I tell you how I was loathe to go to the ER, a.k.a. Swine Flu City, a place I have recently visited. Nor is it when I tell you how appalled I am in the socialized medicine health care system near my house. (This story will come soon because it directly addresses the myriad problems associated with socialized medicine and I am unhappy to report being a witness.) So, if I could save my sister at least five hundred dollars, contracting swine flu, and avoiding incompetence, I was all for it. Hence the call to the expat doctor.

The good news is that nothing is broken. The bad news is that, for MRM, touring is temporarily suspended. Leezer has been set loose to manuever the Metro on her own. We are hopeful that tomorrow Mood Ring Momma will be back on her feet and can at least see one museum, as staying in bed with a bad back is almost as bad for it as tromping around. Getting on the plane is another worrisome problem, but we will cross that puente when we get to it. For now, it is tea, sympathy, and lots of love. Please keep her in your prayers. The Expat Princess is not a good nurse.

November 3, 2009

Holy Toledo!

After visiting Toledo, Mood Ring Momma, Leezer and I understand why it is Holy, and to more than one culture. The Moors, Jews, and Christians lived in relative peace here for approximately 700 years before Ferdinand and Isabel took over. Cardenal Sancha was recently beatified here and his bones are in a box in an altar on in the chapel of San Pedro in the cathedral. The sacristy is, as advertised, a mini-Prado with Titians, Grecos, Van Dycks, and a Rubens, to name just a few of the all star artists. Vestments from the cardenals of Christopher Columbus’ time were also on display. It is the only church I have ever seen with a super cool skylight. Although not Catholic, I miss the votive candles – tiny electric lights at the altars don’t cut it for me. By the time my next visitors get here, I will have the city down pat.

October 27, 2009

Wishing You Every Happiness

Dear Readers,

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Have you noticed that in the last few years Americans have changed our letter endings? Best Regards, Regards, and Best have replaced Sincerely, Yours Truly, and Love. What’s up with that? Do we think we are British or something? Or have we just stopped being sincere???? What happened to the love? This has been vexing me for quite awhile. Even Charlotte the Spider in Charlotte’s Web managed “salutations”, which works perfectly as a beginning or ending. The Spanish “saludos” or “greetings” works for me too and I am going to incorporate this into my letters when not using old-fashioned American letter endings.

Recently Mood Ring Momma has been on a letter writing campaign to famous people, most specifically author and Esquire writer A.J. Jacobs and cosmetic maven Trish McEvoy. The first letter she wrote, her first Famous Person Letter ever, was in praise of Mr. Jacobs’ new book The Guinea Pig Diaries. She signed her letter “Sincerely”, I was pleased to note. Although I have yet to read it (MRM is bringing me it next week), I will take credit for turning her on to the Mr. Jacobs’ body of work. Jesus Freak that I am, I read the The Year of Living Biblically first and have since purchased and passed around his books as gifts. The man is a genius, I’ll have you know. Besides laughing several times on every page, I learned mucho. In any event, Mood Ring did not get a response after a few days so I took it upon myself to write him, thinking perhaps an internet glitch botched the transmission. Lo and behold, he wrote me back and, after resending the letter, he wrote back Mood Ring Momma. Now that’s class. He did get her name wrong but ni modo. He fixed it later.

Then MRM wrote Trish McEvoy after the MakeUnder at Nordies, thanking her for a fun experience. MRM was kind enough to point Ms. McEvoy in the direction of my blog highlighting her fine cosmetics and Viking Queen (what a nice sister!). First, Trish’s team wrote back and then Trish herself wrote MRM, and vicariously me, a lovely note. She signed her note “Wishing You Every Happiness”. For a moment, I thought I was back in Shanghai, that phrase sounding vaguely Chinese, like something you might find on a menu – Wishing You Every Happiness Chicken or Hope Springs Eternal Rolls. It takes a long time to type this phrase out, longer than xoxoxoxo, which I do when in a hurry to friends and family, and certainly longer than the stiff and impersonal Regards. So kudos to Trish McEvoy for developing a signature signature, fresh, original, and American, to thank her fans. I cannot overstate how genuine and personal the note was. Another class act.

I am going to sign off here and wish you every happiness today. Arturo the Electrician is arriving soon to discuss installing lighting. Wires are hanging out of some of my walls where light fixtures should be. Light fixtures do not come with houses here, a trend that is common in most of Europe. And although I am loathe to invest a lot in a house that is not mine, I am also loathe to drive to the ER in the middle of the night when my children and/or guests fall down the stairs because they got lost in the dark.

Sincerely Yours,

The Expat Princess

P.S. Random Tom: I really am working up to bull fighting and other manly endeavors to woo you back!

P.P.S. the Chinese character represents “autumn”, a season when the qi (i.e. life energy) is sluggish. It all makes sense now.

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Housekeeping question: for those with children, do they do chores and if so, what do they do? Did you have to do chores as a child?

October 22, 2009

Amelia Bedelia et al.

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The First World, it turns out, is pretty boring. Housework has consumed me, as I have had few outings besides Granny Water Aerobics and the doctor for shots in the patootie for low vitamin B12 levels. The doctor promises the latter will energize me, but so far, not so much. In the meantime, dealing with piles of stuff we still don’t know where to put, unwrapping all the boxes in the garage, and finding the right adaptor and light bulb for each lamp has nearly done me in. Time consuming, mind-numbing chores which have left no time for trips to the Prado, shopping in the Salamanca district, or ferreting out of markets where people bargain for crap in earnest.

As a child, I internalized Peggy Parish’s Amelia Bedelia, identifying with Mrs. Rogers*. Like Dr. Seuss’s Cat and the Hat (another story involving a big mess), I would get frustrated at the Cat or Amelia, the time crunch suspense of the stories making me anxious. What was wrong with these people/animals? Who doesn’t know how to strip a bed? When the Mexican maid put the toxic purple cleaning solution in the pantry next to the children’s juice my identification with Mrs. Rogers was complete; that was something Amelia would do. At the end of each story, after the horror of Amelia’s goof ups subsided, Mrs. Rogers would realize the nature of the misunderstandings and laugh it off. Hmmmm …. note to self. Attentiveness and communication are key components to any successful relationship, I eventually learned.

However, housework is a lot like riding a bicycle or loading a grocery store conveyor belt – repetitive, tedious, and you don’t ever forget how to do it (unless you are Amelia Bedelia). My mother made sure I knew how to do it all and I am trying to instill this in my children, should the world turn Communist and we, in turn, will have to become maids by profession. Over the years, I have thought a lot about this. Would I make a good maid? Absolutely not. Was I a maid in my former life? I don’t think so. (According to the Wild Rose, I was a fairy server queen, which might explain my liking to throw parties but not cleaning them up.) But in my future life I might become one, so it behooves me to conscientously wipe down the kitchen counters, wash out the garbage cans every once in awhile, and dust the tchotke, the value of which will be debated later.

Maids, like their cultures, have many different personalities. Some like to talk; some like only babies, not sassy seven year olds; some can forge miracles in a pressure cooker; some indulge in petty theft and gambling. I have had only one who preferred the solace of cleaning bathrooms and cleaning barbeque grills. I have tried to treat my maids well. I had about thirty of them in Mexico which, one might be inclined to say was my fault. Partially, I am sure, but also part of the culture. I also didn’t pay as well as I should have. I had a total of three in Brazil in five and a half years. Two maids in China and three drivers. I am as afraid of encountering my former employees in Heaven as I am the Lord; how you treat your employees is, to me, a major exercise in loving your neighbor as yourself. While I might think I am nice, they might have other ideas. Do you pay the going rate or a little above? Do you pay them on time? Are you compassionate? What do you do if your employee is lying to you? What do you do if your maid is Amelia Bedelia and you are Mrs. Rogers?

I will confess to having a “chica” come in for twelve hours a week. B’Olivia is slow but conscientious and we can communicate well. Hablando is a plus, far more effective than the combination of my fractured street Mandarin, noises, and hand gestures. She does all the stuff I decide I don’t want to do that week such as floors, bathrooms, and ironing. I have thus far ruined 2 loads of laundry with the inclusion of one offending pink t-shirt, purchased in New Jersey (hello, Conan O’Brien!) so perhaps should consider switching to floors. After the second load was tinged dusty rose, I threw the shirt out. The guest bedroom bed is my laundry staging area as my mother’s freezer was hers. It would be even nicer if there was a TV in the room.

Yesterday, preparing to submit my moving insurance claim, as I went over the lists of the items sent here to Spain and the items sent to storage in the US, I realized how downsized we had become, by choice and circumstance. The Halloween decorations are apparently in the US (my bad, apparently, as the list showed) and a Christmas tree went AWOL. Gone are three sets of soccer cleats, a computer monitor and keyboard, and other assorted items. I have a cymbal stand but no drums or cymbals. Princess Ai Lin, to whom I sold my safe, found some of my jewels inside last week. Moving, to be sure, clouds one’s thinking.

But more than any one thing, I am missing my family, friends, and a full-time Amelia Bedelia the most. There’s so much more to write about if one has the time to explore!

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Housekeeping question: how often do you wash your towels? Do you hang out your laundry or use the dryer? If you hang out your wash, do you use fabric softener? Folks in the Pacific Northwest are exempt from answering the second question. Citizens of Arizona are not.

* Of course, the irony does not escape me.

October 12, 2009

Michael Jackson, Trish McEvoy and the Viking Queen

Once upon a time, I read in a magazine someone else’s definition of contentment, “a new lipstick, a good book, and a needlepoint project”, and thought to myself, “Now there’s a soul mate”. During law school finals, particularly, I would go with a friend to buy a little study premio, such as a new lip gloss, as a reward for surviving a test or paper. And here let me clarify: we are talking makeup counter makeup, not drugstore. High end product. Stuff that smelled good and came in a slick package. If the saleswoman threw in a makeover and free samples, even better.

One Halloween, post law school, Flaky Friend came to visit me in Baltimore from D.C. Item number one on the agenda: a new lipstick. On the way to the mall we were sideswiped by a little old lady who nearly totalled my luxurious Dodge Spirit. Undeterred, we swapped cars with Mr. Understanding after the car was towed away, and continued to the mall where we each purchased (and correct me if I am wrong, FF) the same shade of russet Clinique lipstick. It looked good on both of us and was seasonally appropriate. Neck-deep in student loans and in the middle of a recession, we limited ourselves to the lipstick. It helped us get over the next day’s and week’s aches and pains.

Living overseas, however, pretty much killed my habit of makeup shopping to alleviate stress. The colors at the department store in Mexico, for example, were geared, naturally, to a more olive complexion and cost twice the price. So I switched to buying necessities at Duty Free stores on trips home. There was also an annual trip to the makeup counter with either a friend, sister, or mother in tow. The brands have varied over the years, a little Chanel and a lot of MAC. Then, as I got older and realized I should not be wearing turquoise eyeshadow, even to parties, I moved on to the sublime Bobbi Brown.

But this summer I got lured away by a nice girl at the Trish McEvoy counter at the flagship Nordstrom store in downtown Seattle. Everyone else was busy (hello, recession? where did you go?) so she reeled me in while Mr. Understanding bought loafers. Melanie made me over and explained Trish’s nifty little compact system. Always looking to downsize and organize, I was hooked. Ms. McEvoy’s quilted, zippered pouch contains magnetic pages to which the pans of eyeshadow, blush, and bronzer adhere. There are pockets for pencils, lipstick and mascara. Plus, afterwards, I looked pretty good and the whole system was perfect for travel, a justified purchase. Melanie, a traveling Trish McEvoy rep, offered to makeover me and my sister Mood Ring Momma the following weekend, along with Lisa, the counter manager. Mood Ring Momma’s surprise 40th birthday party was the next Saturday and I was tasked with creating a diversion. I am good at diversions. Mood Ring suspected not one thing and arrived at her party coiffed, polished, and surprised.

Fastforward a few weeks later, at another Nordstrom’s in the greater Seattle area with Thing 1 in tow. This time a winter white blonde with long braids and bright blue eyes attended me. Tattoos peeked out from her various black garments and stilettos. All she needed was a helmet with horns to complete the look of Viking Queen. For a moment I thought I was at the MAC counter, but no, her makeup was far more natural. Thing 1 looked fab after her makeover, the kind of application mother and teen could agree upon. Then it was my turn. We bonded instantly over the following exchange, condensed for purposes of the blog:

Viking Queen: How about a little of the Shell Eye Brightener?

Me: What does that do?

VQ: Brightens the inner eyes.

Me: Do I need it?

VQ applied the eye brightener and handed me a mirror.

Me: Good God, thanks, but no! I look like Michael Jackson!

VQ spasmed with laughter, saying: You are baaaad! Evil! I think I like you!

MJ had just passed on to his great reward that week but was everywhere, but everywhere. I’d had just about enough. The thing I’d found most fascinating about MJ were his eye enlargements, not the 7+ nose modifications. Why, why, why? I am sure that we will find out soon.

VQ: My dad’s name is Michael.

Me: So’s mine!

VQ: And I’m adopting my little sister who is also name Michael. Spelled M-y-k-e-l-l-e. Dumb, right? But what are you going to do?

I explained about the Iranian girls I’d met earlier in the year who told me that the name Michael was evil.

Me: But wait a minute. Could you please explain how you are adopting your little sister? How old are you?

VQ: I am 31. My scumbag of a dad hooked up with a crack whore. The state [not Washington] took the baby away because the mother already had two other children with problems that were adopted by another family. I also have a 12 year old but the father and I are no longer together [and here she looked wistful]. We had a baby girl who died awhile ago.

Me: I am so sorry. How did you hear about your new half sister?

VQ: My mom. She was going to adopt the baby but the state said she was too old.

Me: Didn’t your dad want the baby?

VQ: Are you kidding?

Really, I am not doing this conversation justice. Imagine wanting to cry and laugh as someone is deftly applying mascara to your eyelashes. In order to adopt her sister, VQ had had to take classes on how to deal with crack babies. She’d had to spend a lot of money hiring lawyers to adopt her own flesh and blood. Like her Nordic predecessors, Viking Queen was undaunted in her quest to adopt her sister, forging ahead over icy, unfathomable waters.

Over the summer, VQ and I had several more conversations. She sent me a Trish gift. I introduced my other sister, MCV, to Trish McEvoy at the Bellevue counter where Peaches had already heard about Mood Ring’s 40th party makeover. Viking Queen’s own mother (if you can believe!) was allowed to bring her her sister from several states over. The ex-husband was in town and volunteered to babysit while Viking Queen taught her spinning and yoga classes, planting a seed of hope. Baby Mykelle looked like her sister/mother and was thriving in her new environment.

Tomorrow, Tuesday, October 13, Trish McEvoy herself is going to be at the downtown Seattle Nordstrom. For an amount less than what you would spend dining with your local Congressman and for an experience far more rewarding, you can have lunch with Trish and get your money back in Trish goods. Sign up if there’s still room. Trish owns her own business and is not part of a conglomerate, a savvy entrepreneur. Several of my favorite people are anteing up so they can buy lipstick with my favorite new Makeup Maven. I hope Viking Queen is there too, so they can meet the woman who inspired me this summer with her innate sense of decency, her acceptance of the tough road she has traveled, and her generosity of spirit. At peace with her past, present, and future, she deserves a prize of her own and I am not talking lipstick. Maybe Trish can give her a promotion?

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Housekeeping Question: How often do you clean out your fridge, as in, get rid of the leftovers, etc?